Restaurant Review - Esquire, Brisbane

Esquire Restaurant
145 Eagle Street, Brisbane.
http://www.esquire.net.au/
07 3220 2123
Chef: Ryan Squires

Now to the important bit, the scores. All out of 5.

Overall - 4.5. Absolutely Outstanding.

Food - 5                                                Service - 3.5
Location - 5                                           Price - 5
Wine List - 2.5                                       Access - 4.5
Confort - 4.5                                          Cleanliness - 5

Menu - Degustation Only [9 or 13 course]
Open - Lunch Tuesday to Friday & Dinner Tuesday to Saturday. Close Sunday & Monday & PH's.
Price - 13 course $130 (ex. drinks)
Dress - Smart/Smart Casual
Type - New, creative, fresh, innovative, no formal food here

It’s a difficult task to be a fresh and creative chef when so many have come before you claiming the same, and usually offering so little. However, Esquire has surely set itself apart from the rest with what can truly be called a fresh and new approach.

Sadly in a town like Brisbane which still thinks so much of the public is wanting 3 big heavy courses and cheap booze Ryan (Chef) and Cameron have stepped outside the quiet country town of the Brisbane feel and decided to take a gamble, one which I and many hope will take-off.

There are a number of restaurants in and around Brisbane which offer tastes of inventive (and not so inventive - all too much the case) degustation course, yet where Ryan differs from the rest is his confidence, at least that's what I will call it, to push the boundaries and take you for a ride, whether you wish to come or not. A review for another day: yet think Urbane, however the boat just hasn't been pushed out as far.

Esquire sits (almost) on the water’s edge of the Brisbane river with magnificent views of the Story Bridge and surrounding city scape, yet the view soon fades as the meals come out, however sometimes a little too quickly for my liking.

As I understand it, all the tables and chairs are hand made for Esquire and based on a similar style in New York, and they have this just perfect. The comfort is next to sensational and make sitting for long periods a dream.

It should also be said that the table size is truly a pleasure. While most restaurants would try and get 4 to a table Esquire keeps it to 2, which makes for an even more comfortable experience.

Table ware is at a minimum, whether this has anything to do with the environment or not I have no idea, yet its nice not to have a cluttered table.

The plates and bowls are simply stunning. They remind me of oversized river pebbles that have been moulded into the shape of a plate or bowl. I want a set for my own.

P.S. I love the open kitchen look, it’s nice to see the goings on.

The wine list is limited. This doesn’t mean it’s not good, yet with so many changes in the kitchen - after all the food design is not to design anything. To side-track, what you get with the food is what is in Chef's head that day. So the menu constantly changes and evolves as new ingredients come in (and out) of season.

Back to the wine, so with this constantly shifting "menu" there should be a wider selection of wine. So, while not a bad wine list, a broader more wider selection of wines would be a wise decision. However, I wouldn’t expect to see a wine flight anytime soon as trying to match this constantly changing "menu" would require a cellar of enormous depth and size.

Expect to find a single A4 piece of paper on the table as you sit down detailing the nights "menu". Some will be coloured in red while others in another colour. It’s simple really, the 4 in a different colour are the ones you miss out on should you go for the 9 course only - so don’t be cheap, nor think you can’t fit it in, you can, so just ask them to "feed you".

The menu will give you a hint of what is coming, yet so does an oncoming car, yet until you hit it you can only guess what is going to happen - mmm, might need to rethink that analogy.

Service? Now this is my only bone of contention. I expected in the first week service to be somewhat 'unpolished' and it was, yet as the weeks have moved on the service has 'polished' up, yet you still feel unloved. It’s not that I want kisses and hugs yet you just feel that the service, while friendly and polite is somewhat rushed, even when not busy, and this starts to rub after a while.

My other compliant about the service is the lack of, umm, knowledge or dare I suggest care from some staff when brining the dishes out. While at times it is obvious what is in front of you it would make an incredible difference if the staff took the time to explain and detail the food. For another review at another time, yet the staff here should pay a visit to Tank Restaurant and experience service I haven’t seen in a long time. Staff at Tank know the food, they explain what the concept was, how it was created and give some hints as to what it is made up of, and of course when you ask questions they have the answers. This is a wonderful experience, and one Esquire could really go with.

So, if you are looking for an amazing culinary experience, tastes to challenge both your perception of food and how it can work with others then Esquire is the place to be. With a good choice from the limited wine list, comfort and style (not over substance in this case) and food you would happily die (or live) for then drop in one night, you might just find this becoming a regular.

--------------------------------------------------------

This review, like all restaurant reviews - unless clearly stated, is based on a visit to the particular establishment within a 4 week period of the review. This could mean it was last night, or 3 weeks ago. In an effort not to identify dinners, usually sufficient time will have passed so that hopefully any little peculiarities cannot be recalled to specific dinners, should such an event have taken place.

This review, like all reviews is not to detail the experience in depth, nor detail the menu, nor provide photographic samples of the food, location or anything else. This review, like all reviews is intended to provide some basic information from which you, the reader, can make an informed decision as to whether this establishment is suited to your dining needs and tastes.

--------------------------------------------------------